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Programmable Knitting: The Evolution of an Environmentally Responsive, Biomimetic Textile System

Lookup NU author(s): Dr Jane Scott

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Abstract

Programmable Knitting presents a new concept for smart materials; shape-changing textiles composed of 100% natural materials. These environmentally responsive fabrics react to changes in moisture levels in the environment, changing in shape and form, providing instant, reversible, 2D to 3D actuation. The aim of this practice-based research is to transform the design potential of programmable and smart materials using a textiles interface. The work explores how knitted fabrics can be engineered to act as a sense and response system directly engaging with an environmental stimulus, and producing a series of programmed shape change responses. This moisture sensitive system eliminates the need for synthetic materials or electronic control required for conventional smart materials. In order to do this, the research applies a biomimicry methodology, with insight derived from the structural organisation of plant tissue; specifically, the control of hygromorphic actuation for seed dispersal. The research question asks: how can the structure of knitted fabric be engineered using biomimicry to design environmentally responsive, shape changing textiles? Through an iterative process, design practice has developed two parallel approaches; the Knitted Assembly System, and Programmable Knitting. Both systems are composed of 100% natural materials. The Knitted Assembly System requires two components, using wood veneer as a bi-layer actuator in combination with complex 3D knitted form. Programmable Knitting transforms our understanding of passive material systems. No longer is the actuator restricted to a bi-layer response. This research demonstrates for the first time, how shape change functionality can be integrated into knitted fabric through a hierarchical approach to fibre, yarn and fabric structure. This enables programmable knitting to exhibit programmed behaviours more complex than those associated with smart synthetic materials and electronic textiles. Using a hierarchical approach derived from biomimicry, a new class of smart-natural knitted fabrics has been established.


Publication metadata

Designer(s): Scott J

Publication type: Design

Publication status: Published

Year: 2015

Media of Output: PDF

Notes: Scott,J, Conference Proceedings, Responsive Knit: the Evolution of a Programmable Material System, 2018, DRS2018: Design as a catalyst for change. 2018, Limerick, Ireland: Design Research Society , London. Gaston EA, Scott J, Exhibition, Post Digital Knit, 2019, Whitby: Pannett Art Gallery. Scott J. Artefact, Growing Medium, Material Innovation in the North, part of Idea of North, The Baltic, 2018. Scott, J, Book chapter, Programmable Knitting: An Environmentally Responsive, Shape-Changing Textile System, 2017, In: Tibbits, S, ed. Active Matter. Boston, USA: MIT Press, , pp.213-216. Scott, J. Artefact, Programmable Knitting, 2016, Ann Arbor Michigan: ACADIA2016, Liberty Research Annex Gallery, Scott J, Conference Paper, Programmable Knitting. 2016, In: Acadia 2016 Posthuman Frontiers: Data, Designers, and Cognitive Machines: the 36th Annual Conference of the Association for Computer Aided Design in Architecture. 2016, The University of Michigan, Taubman College of Architecture and Urban Planning, Ann Arbor, Michigan: Acadia Publishing Company. Scott J. Conference proceedings, Mutate: The Evolution of a Responsive Knit Design System. 2015, In Proceedings: RTD2015; 21st Century Makers and Materialities. 2015, Microsoft Research Centre, Cambridge. Scott, J, Artefact, Growing Medium 2, Species, Programmable Knitting, 2019, Weaving the Future Exhibition, Saltaire, West Yorkshire (2019) Scott, J, Gaston EA, Exhibition, Knit:Design:Research, 2017, The Foyer Gallery, Leeds Scott J, Artefact, Hybrid 1, 2018, Opencell, London Design Festival Scott J, Artefact, Programmable Knitting, 2018, Burberry Materials Futures, London Design Festival. Scott J, Artefact, Bloom, 2018, 17th International FABI Exhibition, Seoul, South Korea. Scott J, Artefact, Programmable Knitwear, 2017, 16th International FABI Exhibition, Seoul, South Korea. Scott J, Artefact, Configure, 2016, Clothworkers South, Leeds Scott, J Exhibition, Colonise: Responsive Knitted Environments, 2015, The Core, Leeds Dock, Leeds


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