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Lookup NU author(s): Dr Simon Wilkinson
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© 2015 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.Skin metabolism is becoming a major consideration in the development of new cosmetic ingredients, skin being the first organ exposed to them. In order to replace limited samples of Excised human skin (EHS), in vitro engineered human skins have been developed. 3D models are daily used to develop and evaluate new cosmetic ingredients and have to be characterized and compared with EHS in terms of metabolic capabilities. This work presents the determination of apparent catalytic parameters (apparent Vmax, Km and the ratio Vmax/Km) in 3D models compared with EHS for cytochrome P450 dependent monooxygenase isoforms involved in drug metabolism, esterases, alcohol dehydrogenases, aldehyde dehydrogenases, peroxidases, glutathione S-transferases, N-acetyl transferases, uridinyl diphosphate glucuronyl transferases and sulfotransferases. Results show that all these enzymes involved in the metabolism of xenobiotics are expressed and functional in the EHS and 3D models. Also, the Vmax/Km ratios (estimating the intrinsic metabolic clearances) show that the metabolic abilities are the most often comparable between the skin models and EHS. These results indicate that the 3D models can substitute themselves for EHS to select cosmetic ingredients on the basis of their metabolism, efficacy or/and safety.
Author(s): Eilstein J, Lereaux G, Arbey E, Daronnat E, Wilkinson S, Duche D
Publication type: Letter
Publication status: Published
Journal: Experimental Dermatology
Year: 2015
Volume: 24
Issue: 7
Pages: 547-549
Print publication date: 01/07/2015
Online publication date: 23/03/2015
Acceptance date: 14/03/2015
ISSN (print): 0906-6705
ISSN (electronic): 1600-0625
Publisher: Blackwell Publishing Ltd
URL: https://doi.org/10.1111/exd.12694
DOI: 10.1111/exd.12694
PubMed id: 25808006
